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| JOIST AND BEAM END REPAIR | ||||
| THE SIMPLE WAY TO JOIST AND BEAM END REPAIR | ||||
| Any joist or beam end in direct contact with a wet wall will eventually succumb to fungal attack and decay (rot), thus losing it's strength, it may even break. Should this happen, the problem of replacement was expensive and time consuming. | ||||
| NOT ANY MORE! | ||||
| The BOWER BEAM, manufactured in 2mm KHR steel to BS4360 by Hill and Smith Ltd and protected by their SUPAGALV finish, in excess of BS2989, can be used to effect a quick, cheap and easy but secure and long lasting replacement. | ||||
| Independent tests have shown that the BOWER BEAM is capable of withstanding loads in excess of the design loads of the wooden joists they are supporting which will, in turn, be isolated from the source of the dampness and further risk. | ||||
| THE SIMPLE FIXING METHOD | ||||
1. |
Cut away the affected timber from 6 inches (150mm) up to 17 inches (425mm) from the joist end. | |||
2. |
Offer up the two halves of the BOWER BEAM to the joist and slide forward into the socket. Secure with the nails provide. | |||
3. |
Drill the required number of pilot holes for the coach screws (not opposite each other). | |||
4. |
Tighten down the coach screws. Note: a blocking piece will be necessary on large cut backs to fasten down the floor boards. | |||